Queen Kahuna CreationsCrazy Toes & HeelsErrata....n. pl. er·ra·ta (-tReturn to Main Page |
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Please, if you find a "mistake" please tell the author of the publication privately. People seem to thank that they should only give high praise to the author and not embarass them with mistakes, but we also appreciate any mistakes or things that are not clear pointed out to us, privately. That way we can fix it before we print again. I print each book as it is ordered, so I have the opportunity to fix anything I find at that time, so new books ARE CURRENT, so, you may already have most of these enhancements in you book . |
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Below are some "fixes". Most are simply "enhancements" to better clarify things for you. |
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| Page 67... added about
April 1, 2005 Step 8: Repeat steps *4* through 7 until you come to the last stitch on that sock. |
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Page
33... added here 3-23-04 Step a: book
reads "left " marker, it should be "right " marker.
a:
Knit up to one stitch before the ***right***
marker. |
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| Pages
84-84 of the "short row heel" Books "printed
for you"(second line/inside front cover)
after January
11, 2004 have this added.
The instructions were not clear for what to do the second time you work the purl side when short-rowing back up. You slip the first stitch of the row, and purl up to one stitch before the first left marker. Slip that stitch before the marker, fling off the marker, lift the purl bump of the next stitch to the right needle, and then purl those two stitches together. |
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Very first versions of book... before June of 2004? |
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Page 84: Step 6 below (not step 7). |
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Page 38: (changes in blue) (step) e: Put a regular marker on the right needle. (That is not a typo. For the left side of the sock, you put the marker on the right needle before this left increase). (step) f: In that third stitch from the left, follow the directions for the “left lifted in crease” (page 13) or your favorite left leaning increase. Added: KNIT TO END OF ROW. Drop your yarn for that sock. (step) g: Pick up the new yarn for the left sock. Repeat steps a through f, for the left sock on that same circular needle. |
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41: (changes in blue) Repeat steps a through m above, until you have the required amount of gusset stitches increased for your socks. Then you will “turn the heel” of your socks. (Page 36.) Not really a "mistake" but page 36 refers to the gusset chart, and it may be confusing. I eliminated "page 36" and changed it to , "on the next page". |
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41: (corrections in blue) If you want to continue in the slipstitch pattern for the “heel turn” of your sock because you started it under the heel, then follow the directions “If working slipstitch heel”, starting at the pink “side bordered” pages that start at page 47. |
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41: (enhanced for more clarity, it was
not incorrect!) This completes the “short row” portion of your stockinette stitch heel turn. In order to avoid a lot of redundancy in this book, I am just going to forward you to the heel flap directions for the “slipstitch pattern” to finish this "all stockinette stitch" heel. This will create your “heel flap” and you only have to change one step from the "slipstitch" heel, as below. Please go on to page 52 to begin to “short row back up”. Work the same as for the slipstitch heel, up to page 58, step 15a –step “c”. · Page 58, step 15a –step “d”…. where it says to “continue across your heel in your slip one/ knit one stitch pattern”, INSTEAD you just knit each stitch across the row for the stockinette stitch heel. Then follow step 15-a, sub-steps “e-p”. (Pages 58-59.) Repeat step 15-a, sub-steps “a-p” as written, only just plain knitting across the row at step 15-a, sub-step “d” for each repeat. · End the heel flap when you have three gusset stitches remaining at the left edge after the marker. Of course if you would like a plain stockinette stitch “heel turn” and then a “slipstitch” heel flap, just go to page 52 and follow through with the slipstitch heel. It is okay to do that! |
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52: (corrections in blue)
I have told you to purl across the row to one stitch before the left
marker.
You should be at the point in the picture at this time, and do not need
to
purl across the row. Step 1: As illustrated at the right, you should have on your needles at this point, the inside of the sock still facing you and be stopped one stitch before the left marker. If not, work to that point. (See picture, step 2, below, also) |
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56: (corrections in blue) Simplified version: Repeat steps 9, 10-a and 10-b until one “naked stitch” remains before the last marker… Step 9, #1 (page 55) Slip the “naked” stitch from the left needle to the right needle. · Step 9, #2 (page 55) Fling off the marker. |
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58: (enhanced for more clarity, it was
not incorrect!) This is between step "d" and "e", purple box for stockinette stitch difference at heel turn. For a plain stockinette stitch heel, slip the first stitch from the left needle to the right needle, then you just knit each stitch across at step “d” above. You follow step 15-a, sub-steps “e-p” the same way. Each time you come to step d above, you just slip the first stitch, and then knit every stitch across the row. (No slipstitch for the stockinette stitch heel.) End the stockinette stitch heel at the same time as the slipstitch heel: when on a purl side, and after the left marker you have three gusset stitches remaining at the left edge. Then proceed at "step 16"... |
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56: (changes in blue) (5's where 6's) e) Reposition the stitches of each sock so you have the 5 right front stitches and the 5 right back stitches onto one needle, and the 5 left front stitches and the 5 left back stitches onto the opposite needle. The stitches will then be in the positions as in the picture at the upper right. This re-positions the stitches so the “bands” that were at the edges of the socks, now line up front to back. |
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